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The Dream is Free, The Hustle Sold Separately

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Vintage Coffee Table {Stenciled & Distressed}

June 25, 2013 by Bethany Sy

Although I love what we’ve been doing with our own home lately, I’ve been seriously missing our furniture rehabs for sure. Nick needed a break from it… and I get that. But there comes a point when a girl realizes she’s gotta take matters into her own hands!

Nick’s been super busy working on an exciting super-secret project. And I’ve been as bored as a person can possibly be with two VERY energetic and partially-potty-trained toddlers running around like wild animals.

So… I haven’t been bored I guess. I talked myself out of it.

I think what I’m trying to say is that I’ve been dabbling in furniture again. This little gem we bought from the same sweet elderly couple we bought the dental cabinet from (which is exactly 17% stripped so far).

Before picture {Sawdust and Embryos}

Me-thinks it’s an antique, but what do I know about furniture? I do know that I super-love the claw-feet. I also love that it doesn’t need any structural help, nor anything else that I would require dependency upon Nick’s skillset.

So I stripped it on a whim one night. Just the top surface though.

Stripping Furniture {Sawdust & Embryos}

Here is my Stripping Tutorial… but as a desperate attempt to save you some hassle, I want it to be known that you DO NOT have to strip furniture unless A) there’s lead-based paint, or B) you’re wanting to stain instead of paint.

What I did:

  1. Slather on some stripper! We like Zinsser best.
  2. Make sure it’s completely covered good and thick, and let it sit for as long as the instructions tell you. For us it was 15 minutes or so.
  3. Scrape it off with a putty knife or one of these magical tools.
  4. If there are dark shiny spots when you’re done, you need to do another coat in those areas because the original finish didn’t come completely off.

Once you’re done stripping, sand ‘er down nice and smooth.

Sawdust & Embryos

Finally all the ‘prep work’ is done and I get to have a little creative fun! The technique I chose to use is not an original idea of mine. My friend Ashley at Domestic Imperfection did an AMAZING paisley stencil to her table awhile back, and I’ve been dying to try out her technique using a different pattern.

pattern

Image Source

I printed this image out on a piece of cardstock (I used my ‘Make your own Stencil’ tutorial, only using cardstock instead of a transparency because I couldn’t fine one!), and spliced away at the pattern with an exacto knife.

Making your own Stencil {Sawdust and Embryos}

I drew a line in pencil down the center of the table using a yardstick so I could keep my stencil straight (important! I promise!). Then, using some white acrylic paint and a stencil brush, I dabbed away!

Stenciled Coffee Table {Sawdust and Embryos} Stencilled Coffee Table {Sawdust and Embryos}

Stencilling a Coffee Table {Sawdust & Embryos}

I took 4 or 5 breaks to let my stencil dry. You’ll know when it starts getting globby.

How to Stencil a Coffee Table {Sawdust and Embryos}

Because of the high contrast of the white and cherry wood grain, you could see some of my brush strokes… but that’s ok. I’ll show you why in a sec.

Stencil and Stain Treatment {Sawdust and Embryos}

Acrylic paint dries in about 5 minutes, but I let this sit overnight to get good and cured. Then I sanded the whole top surface down, putting extra pressure around the edges where normal wear and tear would happen in real life.

Sanding after Stenciling {Sawdust and Embryos}

Stencil then Sand! {Sawdust and Embryos}

Sanding AFTER Stenciling! {Sawdust and Embryos}

Then, using Rustoleum Dark Walnut (as usual!) I smeared on some stain with a cloth. I looooove how the stain makes the wood grain so rich, and allows the white paint to really stand out too! Check out this side by side shot for comparison.

Stencilled & Stained Table {Sawdust and Embryos}

So I decided to paint the body of the coffee table, and just leave the VERY top surface alone. This meant I had to tape off the top… because even if I laid it upside down, it would still get overspray underneath and wouldn’t have a crisp line. So I made sure to use Frog Tape, and manipulated the tape to get a perfect edge! I made a little video for you to demonstrate instead of trying to explain it with still images.

**Please ignore all the junk on the floor in the garage, and the fact that I strapped a camera to my head with a jogging hairband. Also, you can hear the girls through the baby monitor doing their best Mariah Carey impressions.

Taping Rounded Edges {Sawdust and Embryos}

Then I sealed those edges with some poly just to be on the safe side with this stuff.

Seal the edges of your painters tape with poly {Sawdust and Embryos}

Then I taped/newspapered off the rest of the top, flipped ‘er over, and painted using Krylon Dual (prime and paint in one).

Taping off the top surface of furniture {Sawdust and Embryos} Krylon Emerald by Sawdust and Embryos

Feast. Your. Eyes. On… THIS.

Using painters tape to make a PERFECTLY CRISP line on a rounded edge {Sawdust and Embryos}

I mean, come now. Could that line be any more perfect?

Perfectly Crisp paint lines on a rounded edge {Tutorial by Sawdust and Embryos}

Stenciled & Stained Coffee Table by SAWDUST & EMBRYOS

And now for the money shots.

Stencilled & Distressed Coffee Table {Sawdust and Embryos}

Krylon Emerald Green {Sawdust and Embryos} Stencilled & Distressed Coffee Table {by Sawdust & Embryos}

Stencilled and Distressed Coffee Table (by Sawdust & Embryos)

Coffee Table Before & After {Sawdust and Embryos}

Here’s your handy printable recipe:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Stenciled & Antiqued Coffee Table

Time commitment: 4 hours total

Difficulty level: 3 (out of 10)

  • piece of furniture
  • piece of cardstock
  • Exacto knife
  • white acrylic paint
  • Wood Stain
  • Frog Tape
  • Poly
  • Spray Paint

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

*this post contains affiliate links

Bethany {Sawdust and Embryos}

Related:

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    We've been needing to update our coffee table situation in the living room for awhile…

  • Stripping an Old Stained Desk

    We love the original wood of our library, and wanted to find a desk that…

About Bethany Sy

Nick and Bethany Sy are the creative free-spirits behind DIY/Lifestyle blog, Reality Daydream. They recently purchased a historic mansion and have been documenting the ups and downs of renovation and making this home their own... all while sharing tips and tutorials along the way! When they found themselves in the trenches of infertility, they started a journey that would prove to be their most important DIY project ever, and have 3 beautiful girls to show for it. <3

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Comments

  1. 35

    Janice Redden says

    July 9, 2019 at 5:15 pm

    After you stencil with white paint, then stain, what keeps the srrain from covering up the white?

    Reply
    • 36

      Bethany Sy says

      July 12, 2019 at 2:17 pm

      Since the stain has an opaque quality, it doesn’t completely cover the white. It just gives it a distressed look!

      Reply
  2. 37

    Sue pennington says

    February 3, 2018 at 9:33 am

    I had to laugh, I was looking for the correct way to stencil a little table that I am working on and I see your post of the little orange table. it is my exact table. At the time after you payed you’re stencil down you applied Poly to seal the edges then you found it better to lightly sand the Poly so the paint could stick better. (That post was about a year ago) Is that what you are still doing or are you doing a different technique? Your work is absolutely beautiful! TIA for the advise.

    Reply
    • 38

      Bethany Sy says

      February 3, 2018 at 3:10 pm

      Yes, if the poly you use has a glossy sheen, I would lightly sand it with 220 grit sandpaper just to make it a more ‘matte’ finish. This will help the paint to stick to it better. If the poly you’re using is already matte, you can skip sanding! Please send pics when your done! Or you can join our DIY community on Facebook and share your pics there! Here’s the link to request an invite>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/DIYRealityDaydream/

      Reply
  3. 39

    Kate says

    July 1, 2016 at 12:44 am

    Gorgeous! 🙂

    Reply
  4. 40

    April Janutka says

    February 15, 2016 at 2:33 am

    Sorry if this has been asked a thousand times, but where do you find your furniture pieces?

    Reply
  5. 41

    Ayesha says

    May 22, 2014 at 6:06 am

    all your pieces are great. i also stenciled 2 pieces by taking inspiration from u.
    i wish i can post my pics here.

    Reply
    • 42

      Bethany @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      May 22, 2014 at 6:49 am

      THanks so much Ayesha! I wish you could leave pics in the comments too. I’d love to see your stuff though, so you could email pics to us directly at sawdustandembryos@gmail.com. Can’t wait to see your work!!

      Reply
  6. 43

    Kay says

    October 22, 2013 at 6:48 am

    I’m noticing that you use polyurethane over polyacrylic, is there any reason why? I’m refinishing furniture in order to get the looks I want so I’m new to this whole thing. I want to make sure the furniture I refinish is durable. Btw you do AH-MAZING WORK

    Reply
    • 44

      Bethany @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      January 17, 2014 at 9:03 am

      Kay, I don’t know how I missed your comment… I’m soooo sorry! You can use water-based paint/poly over oil-based paint/poly and vice versa, as long as the coat below it is good and dry. We use polycrylic (water based) when we’re trying to seal white paint (because oil based poly has a yellowish tint to it). Hope this helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!

      Reply
  7. 45

    Kristina at The Purple Pea says

    July 1, 2013 at 1:42 am

    Explain the sealing the tape with the Poly. I’d love to learn a new trick for those clean edges!

    Reply
    • 46

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      July 1, 2013 at 1:41 pm

      Kristina, after taping just brush on some clear poly and let it dry before painting. This seals down the edges of the tape and gives a PERFECT crisp line! Totally worth it. 🙂

      Reply
      • 47

        Maggie says

        January 17, 2014 at 12:23 am

        Hi, I was just wondering if you have to be careful while painting the poly on the tape edge, so as not to get any on the part you actually want to paint? Or does the paint still apply normally with a thin layer of poly under it? What a great technique! Thanks!

        Reply
        • 48

          Bethany @ Sawdust and Embryos says

          January 17, 2014 at 9:05 am

          It won’t matter if you get a thin coat of poly on the part that is to be painted. Especially if you’re using water-based, because it’s a thinner formula. Hope this helps!! 🙂

          Reply
  8. 49

    Yvonne Virgadamo says

    June 29, 2013 at 6:15 pm

    I absolutely love the stenciled and stained table top, but not so in love with the painted bottom. Being more of a traditionalist, I’m going to use this technique, but strip the whole piece and stain it the same, or possibly stain the lower portion a little darker. I have a rather battered antique dresser that needs a lot of TLC, and I love the look of dresser scarves, but hate the way they slip around and make things wobble. This looks like the perfect solution. I

    Reply
  9. 50

    Nancy Wilson says

    June 28, 2013 at 3:04 pm

    My Mother and Dad would be pleased as I am, with the updating of their coffee table. It was given to them as a wedding gift in 1939 and they enjoyed it in their living room for many years. Mother gave it to our son and hence the watermark from a plant on the top. I was always going to redo the top, but never got around to it. I am glad that Beth did such a good job of rejuvenating the table. Enjoy!
    Nancy Wilson

    Reply
    • 51

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      June 29, 2013 at 1:00 pm

      We love the history and story behind it Nancy! Thanks for entrusting it to us. 🙂

      Reply
  10. 52

    Heidi says

    June 27, 2013 at 2:22 am

    i LOVE this technique!

    Reply
  11. 53

    astr!d says

    June 26, 2013 at 8:06 pm

    that stencil, paint, sand, stain technique is amazeing!! it looks awesome!! and i love the two toned table.

    Reply
  12. 54

    Kathy@ Gone North says

    June 26, 2013 at 1:18 am

    WOW!!! Nicely, nicely done…
    Thanks for the tips & the how-to. I love the sanding, after stenciling tip…
    ( & PS. I am no furniture expert by any means, but I think that the table may be a Duncan Phyfe.. a somewhat valuable piece ??? )

    Reply
    • 55

      rphd says

      June 26, 2013 at 2:56 am

      Kathy is right, that style of table is called a Duncan Phyfe table. The brass, lion claw, feet are the most recognizable features of the Duncan Phyfe style. Other common features are the double posts with the ridged and curved legs, pineapple finials and harp-shaped post designs are also very common. If this was a table actually made by Duncan Phyfe it would be worth a LOT. It’s likely a reproduction…still pretty and still highly desirable.

      What a great find, and a beautiful transformation. Emerald is such a beautiful color and is absolutely PERFECT for this Duncan Phyfe coffee table! Great job Beth 🙂

      Pelham @ UrbanDEN

      Reply
  13. 56

    Mindy Schaper says

    June 25, 2013 at 10:28 pm

    You are just so awesome… what a transformation! Love the stencil top!

    Reply
  14. 57

    Amy Marshall says

    June 25, 2013 at 7:04 pm

    It’s awesome! Thanks for sharing the stencil idea with stain over it…will have to try that! 🙂

    Have a great week!
    Amy
    http://www.homesweetthriftyhome.com

    Reply
  15. 58

    Kenz @ Interiors By Kenz says

    June 25, 2013 at 5:26 pm

    Such a beautiful piece! I love everything about this 🙂 The emerald is so rich looking. The distressed stencil/stain is superb. Absolutely stunning! Your vision amazes me. Most people don’t just think up combinations like that and have them actually work, like you do. Your video was cute too 🙂

    Reply
  16. 59

    Lrimerman says

    June 25, 2013 at 5:11 pm

    I love that, I would never have thought to do that! I am new that this and have my first project ready to go but it is raining today, so I have to wait. Do you always recommend stripping if you are going to re-stain? I have seen TV shows where they just sand the wood before they re-stain it. I am going to keep my eyes out for a table that this will work on. I need a new table in my living room!

    Reply
    • 60

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      June 25, 2013 at 5:14 pm

      I always strip before I re-stain, because the stain is meant to soak into the wood… and if there’s a finish of any kind, it’s going to prevent the stain from doing it’s job. I’m sure there are products out there that claim you can stain right over a sealed finish… but I’m skeptical! Seems like painting instead of staining if you’re not staining the actual raw wood. Good question though!

      Reply
    • 61

      Lrimerman says

      June 25, 2013 at 5:16 pm

      Did you poly the entire table top after you stained it?

      Reply
    • 62

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      June 25, 2013 at 5:17 pm

      Honestly I haven’t sealed it yet. I’m planning to use a wax sealer on the top stained surface because I want it to be a dull finish. I’m going to poly the base nice and glossy though!

      Reply
    • 63

      rphd says

      June 26, 2013 at 2:47 am

      Beth, for a dull finish, a great alternative to wax is to hand-rub satin polyurethane. It’ll be more durable. Minwax makes wipe-on poly (which is essentially poly that’s been thinned with a thinning agent) or you can just use the regular thick stuff. Just rub it on and smooth/blend it out thoroughly. Do multiple thin coats and it’ll be perfect. The last piece I did this on, I did 4 coats! Not really as time consuming as it sounds, either.

      Pelham @ UrbanDEN

      Reply
    • 64

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      June 26, 2013 at 1:37 pm

      Hmmm, interesting Pelham! And does the thinned-out poly provide a matte finish??

      Reply
  17. 65

    Christine from MyMilkGlass says

    June 25, 2013 at 5:05 pm

    gorgeous!!!!!!!!!

    Reply
  18. 66

    Robin Frank says

    June 25, 2013 at 4:36 pm

    I love it too! I sure wish I had some tools and stuff…

    Reply
  19. 67

    christina @ homemade ocean says

    June 25, 2013 at 3:40 pm

    Could I be more in love….nope.

    Soooo you had me at stain (because thanks to you I slapped some stain on wood for the FIRST TIME EVER and I think I am addicted)

    Throw in stencil, my knees went weak.

    But seriously….the green. The color that makes my heart pitter patter. It’s like this table came straight from my dreams!

    All I am trying to say is touche. I love it.

    Reply
    • 68

      Beth @ Sawdust and Embryos says

      June 25, 2013 at 4:40 pm

      THANKS Christina! Ever since Emerald was named color of the year, I’ve been itching to use it on something! I’m glad you’ve been dabbling in stain… FUN RIGHT?

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. TRY THIS: Emerald Green Furniture Makeovers - Four Generations One Roof says:
    March 7, 2015 at 5:00 am

    […] Sawdust and Embryos framed a stenciled table top with gorgeous emerald green. […]

    Reply
  2. Stencilled & Distressed Coffee Table {by Sawdust and Embryos} says:
    February 14, 2014 at 6:19 pm

    […] for a new fresh paint job! (for specifics on taping of edges like this with rounded corners, see my original tutorial for a full explanation and video […]

    Reply

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We are Nick and Bethany! Welcome to our blog, Reality Daydream where we share our DIY adventures!
Click here for lots of art projects using only wood stain on furniture!!
Please feel free to share or pin my posts! You're welcome to use ONE of my images (no collages or pinnables) with a link back to the corresponding post. Please do not edit or crop that single image in any way. Improper use of my photos, ideas or words is a violation of copyright. Thank you!

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Attention: Almost any do-it-yourself project involves risk of some sort. Your tools, materials, and skills will vary, as will the conditions at your project site. Reality Daydream has made every effort to be complete and accurate in the instructions of the plans on this website. Reality Daydream will not assume any responsibility or liability for damages or losses sustained or incurred in the course of your project or in the use of the item you create. Always follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions in the use of tools, check and follow your local building codes, and observe all commonly accepted safety precautions.

 

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