Nick and I have been sort of ‘casually’ working on this Herringbone Table over the past month and a half. You might already know that if you’ve seen all the teasers on Nick’s Instagram (@TheSawdustMaker) …he can’t control himself! It’s been a really fun build, with lots of fun unique elements! Like the herringbone wood pattern, tapered legs, and suuuuper glossy epoxy application.
*This post is sponsored by Rockler. Thank you for supporting the fabulous brands that make Reality Daydream possible! This post contains affiliate links.*
We actually built this table for Nick’s sister Sarah and her family, and it was built with specific dimensions to fit their needs. Feel free to modify and make it your own!
Supplies for Herringbone Dining Table
- 1x6x72 Maple (qty 2)
- 4x4x8 white wood (qty 2)
- 1x10x8 white wood (qty 7)
- 4x8x5/8” particle board
- Wood Floor adhesive
- V-Notch adhesive spreader (qty 2)
- System Three Epoxy pigment black
- Famowood glaze coat epoxy
- Dental Syringe
- Table Top Fastener Hardware
- 2” Kerf Mount Corner Bracket
- 5/16-18 x 3 hanger bolts
- 5/16-18 wing nuts
- 5/16 Inch flat washer
- Behlen Jet Black Dye
- Minwax polyurathene
- 1” 23ga headless pin nails
- 1 ¾ 18ga brad nails
Tools for Herringbone Dining Table
- Ridgid Circular Saw
- Ridgid Miter saw
- Laguna Table Saw
- Jet Drill Press
- Hitachi Router
- Rockler Router Table
- Grex Pin Nailer
- Ryobi Brad Nailer
- Ryobi Biscuit Joiner
- Ridgid Impact driver
- Kreg Precision Miter Gauge
- Rockler Taper Jig
- Dewalt 7 in variable speed polisher/sander
- Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander
- Stanley Block Plane
- Oshlun Combination Square
- Irwin Chalk Line
- Irwin 12” clamps
- Rockler Pipe Clamp
- ¼” roundover router bit
- Ogee router Bit
I’m going to hand this over to Nick, because he’s the brains behind this build. Let’s give him a round of applause!
Hey guys! LET’S DO THIS!
We started by cutting out the backboard (5/8” Particle Board). I wanted this to be an inch longer on all sides so that we can trim it down after we attach the boards, making up the herringbone pattern. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
I cut it to width (32”) on the table saw and then cut it to length (74”) using a circular saw.
We marked the center of the backboard (32”) and snapped a chalk-line 5 inches off both sides of the center mark, then 10” out from those chalk-lines. So your 32” board will have an inch on both sides and then be equally marked in 10” increments.
We then cut five 1x10x8 pine boards into 18” sections, ran them through the table saw to clean up the edges, and cut them into strips of 2 3/4”.
We took one of the boards and laid it out on the backboard to find the required length. To do this we measured and marked 10” down the length of one of the chalk lines. Then we placed the corner of the 18” board we just ripped on the chalk-line, right of the backboard centerline, aligning the top edge of the board on the 10” mark we just made and mark the bottom left edge where it intersects the chalk-line and mark the board you just ripped. It will be something like 17-1/16”.
We setup our precision miter gauge with the stop set to cut on the line we just drew. Cut 15 boards to this length.
We worked our way from the center laying out the herringbone pattern. Then we used a chalk line to mark the outsides about a 1/2” from both edges. Cut these boards using the precision miter gauge set at a 45 degree angle.
Mark and cut the remaining ends.
I chamfered all the edges (adjacent to other boards in the pattern) with a block plane about an 1/8” chamfer.
We used a V-Notched trowel and some wood floor adhesive to glue all the boards into place and nailed them with a 23ga Grex pinner.
Once dry (24 hours), we cut off all the excess material, 1” on each side.
Rip two more 1”X10”X8’ boards to 4”, route the edges with an ogee router bit, cut them to length, and glue/screw them into place.
We flipped the table over leveled it, taped all the edges and filled all the chamfers with dyed black epoxy.
Sand off excess epoxy and stain.
Next we cut the legs using two 4”x4”x8, we cut ours to length (30”) using a miter saw, then cut them down to 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 30” using the table saw. and tapered two faces with Rockler’s taper jig.
Layout where the apron will go (1 1/2” in from all the sides), then setting the legs in place we measured the lengths that the apron would need to be. For the long sides our aprons were, 64-7/8” and the short ones were 22-1/4. After ordering some 5/4 maple we ripped it down to 2 1/2” and then used the miter saw to cut it down to the previously mentioned lengths.
Using some practice boards and a biscuit joiner we cut slots for Rocker’s table top fasteners. Once you are satisfied with how snug they mount, cut the slots in the apron with the biscuit joiner. 3 fasteners on the ends and 5 on the sides.
Once in place, we measured and cut grooves for Rockers steel corner braces, then marked and drilled pilot holes to attach the braces.
Then we marked and cut a chamfer on the inside of the legs, where they attach to the steel brace; marked a location for a hanger bolt, drilled a pilot hole and inserted the hanger bolt, and screwed the legs to the base of the table with a wing nut and a flat washer.
After flipping the table over, we cut 1 1/2” strips of maple to trim out the edges of the table and routed the top and bottom corners with a 1/4” roundover bit. Then we dyed the trim with Behlen Black Alcohol dye, glued and nailed it into place with a RYOBI 18ga brad nailer. we tried to leave about a 1/16” lip all the way around for some bar-top epoxy.
We then dyed the apron and the legs with the Behlen Jet black alcohol dye and Minwax polyurathene.
Lastly, we epoxied the table top with Famowood’s glaze coat epoxy. Mix and apply per Famowood’s instuctions. I will say to make sure you are using a 1/4” v-notched trowel. This will make it easy to spread around.
That glossy coat is SO amazing and durable! And we love that it’s self-leveling.
Well peeps, thanks for letting me take some of your time. If you would like to see additional progress shots and some behind the seen photos, be sure to follow me on Instagram at @TheSawdustMaker.
Be sure to check out our other building projects, and let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for pinning!
1. For the “System Three Epoxy” – did you mix that with the Fomowood glaze coat?
2. When you poured the Fomowood Glaze Coat over the tabletop, what do you mix the Glaze with?
3. And when you are pouring the fomowood glaze on the tabletop, do you allow it to overflow onto the black trim pieces?
Thanks for your help, I’ve loved putting this together so far.
Bethany Sy says
Abe, sorry for the delay one this.
1. Yes, I mixed it with the glaze coat.
2. Famowood Glaze Coat is a two part epoxy, the Resin and the Hardener are mixed in equal proportions.
3. Yes, we flooded the table and let it run over the sides so they would also be coated.
Thanks, I would love to see pictures of your project.
mark J. says
Table looks great! curious to know what resources you used in designing your table leading up to it? looking to do one for my next project and would like to use yours as inspiration! Was there a particular reason you used maple for the apron?
We have this same epoxy and getting ready to put it on our kitchen table. It will be my first time and I’m worried about it falling off the edges. How does that work? Does it spill over a lot or should we put something around the edges?
Also what color stain did you use?
Bethany Sy says
Let it drip, you will want a piece of plastic of something on the floor.
Audra @ Renewed Projects says
Wow! This is absolutely amazing!
Dan the reclaimer man says
Stunning project. I’m inspired to do something similar. I’m going to use pine boards and apply the Shou Sugi Ban technique in 3 different colors, and lay them out using your herringbone pattern. Should look amazing under the epoxy. Did you do an additional flood coat after the initial one, or was 1 pour enough for a glass-like finish? How did you address the epoxy after it cured? Did you sand and buff it?
Anyone attempting a project like this should make sure their table is absolutely level when they pour the epoxy, or it will end up deep (and overflowing) at the lowest point and very shallow at the highest point.
Samuel Clark says
I am about to make this table with a bunch of small, mahogany door end cuts that I got for free and have processed down. What floor adhesive did you use to place the boards to the particle board?
Hannah Vella says
Hi! Did you need the whole gallon of lacquer? Can I get away with buying the smaller container?
Bethany Sy says
Hey Hannah! It’s epoxy that we used, and yes we almost used the whole gallon. It was a big table!
Lea Lockwood says
The table turned out beautifully! Can you tell me the stain color please?
Bethany Sy says
It’s Varethane Golden Oak!
E James says
Beautiful! What are you using in that gif that shows the clear epoxy going on? Is it a heat gun? Also, what were the finished dimensions? Thanks!
Bethany Sy says
Yes the heat gun make all the bubbles in the epoxy rise to the surface and pop! It’s like magic! You can use a hair dryer too. 😉