Nick and I have been sort of ‘casually’ working on this Herringbone Table over the past month and a half. You might already know that if you’ve seen all the teasers on Nick’s Instagram (@TheSawdustMaker) …he can’t control himself! It’s been a really fun build, with lots of fun unique elements! Like the herringbone wood pattern, tapered legs, and suuuuper glossy epoxy application.
*This post is sponsored by Rockler. Thank you for supporting the fabulous brands that make Reality Daydream possible! This post contains affiliate links.*
We actually built this table for Nick’s sister Sarah and her family, and it was built with specific dimensions to fit their needs. Feel free to modify and make it your own!
Supplies for Herringbone Dining Table
- 1x6x72 Maple (qty 2)
- 4x4x8 white wood (qty 2)
- 1x10x8 white wood (qty 7)
- 4x8x5/8” particle board
- Wood Floor adhesive
- V-Notch adhesive spreader (qty 2)
- System Three Epoxy pigment black
- Famowood glaze coat epoxy
- Dental Syringe
- Table Top Fastener Hardware
- 2” Kerf Mount Corner Bracket
- 5/16-18 x 3 hanger bolts
- 5/16-18 wing nuts
- 5/16 Inch flat washer
- Behlen Jet Black Dye
- Minwax polyurathene
- 1” 23ga headless pin nails
- 1 ¾ 18ga brad nails
Tools for Herringbone Dining Table
- Ridgid Circular Saw
- Ridgid Miter saw
- Laguna Table Saw
- Jet Drill Press
- Hitachi Router
- Rockler Router Table
- Grex Pin Nailer
- Ryobi Brad Nailer
- Ryobi Biscuit Joiner
- Ridgid Impact driver
- Kreg Precision Miter Gauge
- Rockler Taper Jig
- Dewalt 7 in variable speed polisher/sander
- Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander
- Stanley Block Plane
- Oshlun Combination Square
- Irwin Chalk Line
- Irwin 12” clamps
- Rockler Pipe Clamp
- ¼” roundover router bit
- Ogee router Bit
I’m going to hand this over to Nick, because he’s the brains behind this build. Let’s give him a round of applause!
Hey guys! LET’S DO THIS!
We started by cutting out the backboard (5/8” Particle Board). I wanted this to be an inch longer on all sides so that we can trim it down after we attach the boards, making up the herringbone pattern. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
I cut it to width (32”) on the table saw and then cut it to length (74”) using a circular saw.
We marked the center of the backboard (32”) and snapped a chalk-line 5 inches off both sides of the center mark, then 10” out from those chalk-lines. So your 32” board will have an inch on both sides and then be equally marked in 10” increments.
We then cut five 1x10x8 pine boards into 18” sections, ran them through the table saw to clean up the edges, and cut them into strips of 2 3/4”.
We took one of the boards and laid it out on the backboard to find the required length. To do this we measured and marked 10” down the length of one of the chalk lines. Then we placed the corner of the 18” board we just ripped on the chalk-line, right of the backboard centerline, aligning the top edge of the board on the 10” mark we just made and mark the bottom left edge where it intersects the chalk-line and mark the board you just ripped. It will be something like 17-1/16”.
We setup our precision miter gauge with the stop set to cut on the line we just drew. Cut 15 boards to this length.
We worked our way from the center laying out the herringbone pattern. Then we used a chalk line to mark the outsides about a 1/2” from both edges. Cut these boards using the precision miter gauge set at a 45 degree angle.
Mark and cut the remaining ends.
I chamfered all the edges (adjacent to other boards in the pattern) with a block plane about an 1/8” chamfer.
Once dry (24 hours), we cut off all the excess material, 1” on each side.
Rip two more 1”X10”X8’ boards to 4”, route the edges with an ogee router bit, cut them to length, and glue/screw them into place.
We flipped the table over leveled it, taped all the edges and filled all the chamfers with dyed black epoxy.
Sand off excess epoxy and stain.
Next we cut the legs using two 4”x4”x8, we cut ours to length (30”) using a miter saw, then cut them down to 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 30” using the table saw. and tapered two faces with Rockler’s taper jig.
Layout where the apron will go (1 1/2” in from all the sides), then setting the legs in place we measured the lengths that the apron would need to be. For the long sides our aprons were, 64-7/8” and the short ones were 22-1/4. After ordering some 5/4 maple we ripped it down to 2 1/2” and then used the miter saw to cut it down to the previously mentioned lengths.
Using some practice boards and a biscuit joiner we cut slots for Rocker’s table top fasteners. Once you are satisfied with how snug they mount, cut the slots in the apron with the biscuit joiner. 3 fasteners on the ends and 5 on the sides.
Once in place, we measured and cut grooves for Rockers steel corner braces, then marked and drilled pilot holes to attach the braces.
Then we marked and cut a chamfer on the inside of the legs, where they attach to the steel brace; marked a location for a hanger bolt, drilled a pilot hole and inserted the hanger bolt, and screwed the legs to the base of the table with a wing nut and a flat washer.
After flipping the table over, we cut 1 1/2” strips of maple to trim out the edges of the table and routed the top and bottom corners with a 1/4” roundover bit. Then we dyed the trim with Behlen Black Alcohol dye, glued and nailed it into place with a RYOBI 18ga brad nailer. we tried to leave about a 1/16” lip all the way around for some bar-top epoxy.
Lastly, we epoxied the table top with Famowood’s glaze coat epoxy. Mix and apply per Famowood’s instuctions. I will say to make sure you are using a 1/4” v-notched trowel. This will make it easy to spread around.
That glossy coat is SO amazing and durable! And we love that it’s self-leveling.
Well peeps, thanks for letting me take some of your time. If you would like to see additional progress shots and some behind the seen photos, be sure to follow me on Instagram at @TheSawdustMaker.
Be sure to check out our other building projects, and let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for pinning!