As you know, we’ve been constructing an addition onto our bathroom vanity, building a butcher block countertop, etc. We’ve run into our fair share of snags along the way, but we’re taking it in stride… because Murphy’s Law is the name of the game when it comes to anything DIY. Can I get an amen?
We recently stained our butcher block counter, and sealed it with an ultra-THICK (and glossy might add) coat of 2-part epoxy (this stuff!). Be sure to check out our Butcherblock Counter Tutorial HERE!
Today we want to talk to you about a our most recent install. This Sexy Beast of a Moen faucet: Model 6111. So sleek and modern!
We chose this model because we’ll be installing a vessel sink (more on that another day), and we learned the hard way that there are special faucets for vessel sinks!
Ok let’s get started, shall we? Faucets are simple to install, so there is no reason to fret or call the plumber (which means you no longer have to look at their plumber’s crack! Unless your into that?).
The basic premise is the same for all faucets, so this isn’t necessarily tailored to a vessel faucet. There will always be slight variations with different brands/models, but with this basic foundation of knowledge, you should be fine!
This next photo is to remind us where we came from. A moment of silence please.
So this faucet came with o-ring base, which means you can put that sealant away… we want to put the o-ring in the groove.
Then the base goes in the contour of the faucet! Rocket science, I’m tellin’ you.
Next pull out this spacer and nut; slide it over the stud below your counter and tighten;
Whoa WHOA… put away those guns sister. This is an o-ring construction there is no need to get a he-man armstrong on it. Snug and then some… we want to compress the o-ring, not crush it!
This is your water fitting. It is basically a 1/2” compression fitting with a rubber seal. Do you see the black rubber seal? Ok you are going to thread these onto your shut off valves then tighten using a 5/8” wrench.
Don’t have shut-off valves? You should install them! If you have any questions just email and I will be more than happy to walk you through the process.
Remember: don’t over-tighten; I got mine hand tight and then tightened 2 or 3 more turns. You want it to seal but not completely crush. Over tightening may result in a shortened life of the rubber seal.
Now on to the drain! Because we installed a vessel sink we bought this beauty of a drain.
This drain came with a rubber seal on top and bottom of the sink/counter. Some do… some don’t. If it doesn’t, you will need to use a healthy dose of Plumber’s Putty or Silicone.
The rubber below the counter is most likely threaded; thread it so it is snug against the bottom of the counter and then tighten using a pair of adjustable pliers. After that we thread on the drain tube (there is also a rubber seal at this connection)
This is a slip joint… it consists of a nut and a washer. Notice the taper on the washer? You want that to act as a wedge into the mating part. So remember small taper points to threaded end.
I dry fit everything getting them into place and then tighten each slip joint. I had to install a flex tube (accordion looking tube) because I relocated my drain hole beyond what my S-trap could compensate for. Any stress in these pipes may cause a leak or shortened lifespan of slip joint washers.
Notice the S-Trap (the thing that looks like a sideways S. Contrary to popular belief it’s primary function is not to catch precious gems dropped down the sink (although this function is nice) it is to trap sewer gases from entering your house. Water fills the bottom portion creating a seal.
Once everything is tightened, turn on the water back on and check each joint for leaks. Then check to ensure that hot is hot and cold is cold. If your as paranoid about everything as me, you will repeat this process at least 3 times and then once more for good measure…and maybe every day after for at least a week… it’s ok. We support your over zealous leak detection.
Remember: Under-tightening seals my cause a leak, while over-tightening may cause a shorten lifespan of the seal. You don’t want to have to stretch your drain pipes to get them to fit; keep things loose until you have it all assembled then tighten.
Yay, you did it! That wasn’t difficult at all was it? Goodbye plumbers crack, hellooo sexy faucet!
This is a sponsored post written by us on behalf of Moen, Inc. All opinions are 100% ours! We were truly impressed with the quality of Moen faucets. While the bulk of the industry has switched to a composite or a cheaper alloy, Moen continues to use brass internal components. Best of all they stand by their product. If your faucet ever starts leaking or if there’s an issue with the finish they will send you the parts to replace it for free, for life! I am not saying there aren’t other faucets out there that offer this service, but it always says something about a company when they are willing to stand by their product! We weren’t prompted to say any of that either! Just tellin’ it like it is. Over and out!
*this post contains affiliate links